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THE BEST
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San
Francisco Travel Guide
The most attractive of American cities and regularly voted the
best city in the USA, San Francisco is adored because of its colourful history,
dramatic setting and its laissez-faire atmosphere, a quality missing from
synthetic Los Angeles. It is a regular trendsetter in everything alternative,
from flower-power to 'free love' and gay liberation; it prides itself on being
individualistic, down-to-earth and cultured.
Streets rollercoaster up and
down the hills, and when not swathed in the city's trademark fog, there are
superb vistas of San Francisco Bay, spanned by one of the world's most famous
sights, the Golden Gate Bridge. Surrounded by hills and urban development,
traversed by bridges, dotted with sails and 14 small islands, including the
notorious Alcatraz, the bay is the largest inlet on the Californian Coast.
Fisherman's Wharf at the edge of the bay is a popular place to eat, stroll and
shop, with its resident seals a favourite photographic
subject.
Sanfrancisco Attractions
Golden Gate Bridge
The rust-coloured
towers, graceful suspension and supportive cables of the Golden Gate Bridge make
this famous symbol of San Francisco the most photographed bridge in the world,
and visible from almost any high point in the city, although it is often
shrouded in rolling fog. Spanning the two-mile (3km) mouth of the bay, it was
the longest suspension bridge in the world at the time of its completion in 1937
and was built to withstand winds of more than 100 mph (161km per hour). During
high winds it can sway up to 27ft (8m) in each direction. One of the great
engineering accomplishments of the 20th century, the bridge claims to have used
enough wire in its construction to stretch around the earth several times.
Walking across the bridge, under the towers that loom 65 storeys above the
water, is one of the best ways to experience the immensity of the structure and
affords beautiful views of the San Francisco skyline, the bay and its islands.
Golden Gate Bridge is also a favourite with the suicidal and the sidewalks are
dotted with crisis-counselling phones.
Fisherman’s Wharf
Some people love the bustle of
Fisherman’s Wharf, while others make a conscious effort to steer well clear of
it. But for better or worse it is massively popular, attracting more visitors
than any other city sight, with Pier 39 the commercial tourist epicentre. The
Wharf was once a fishing port with dozens of boats anchored here. Pier 45 is
still used by fishermen in the early morning hours, and fish and seafood can be
bought from the Fish Alley Market. There are shops galore, fast food stands and
overpriced bay-view restaurants as well as bars, markets, street performers, and
an endless variety of activities for the whole family. It is also the gateway
for several top attractions: trips to Alcatraz and other bay cruises leave from
here; numerous museums include the Historic Ships Pier; and the USS Pampanito
submarine that can be boarded from Pier 45. The entertaining colony of sea lions
that reside on the floating docks at Pier 39 are one of the best attractions on
the quay.
North Beach
Between Russian and Telegraph Hills, North
Beach is San Francisco’s ‘Little Italy’, that has long been the central hub for
anyone with alternative inclinations. During the 1950s the pleasure-seeking,
non-conformist lifestyle of the Beat Generation and their rebellious literature
contributed to the neighbourhood’s unconventional character and tourists poured
into the district for 'Beatnik Tours'. Two of the Beat-era landmarks are the
Vesuvio bar, and the first paperback bookstore in the US and hangout of Beat-era
writers, the City Lights Bookstore. The steep stairways on Telegraph Hill lead
to one of the city’s most distinctive landmarks, Coit Tower, a monument to the
volunteer fire fighters of the city providing superb 360-degree views of the
city and San Francisco Bay. Inside the round, stone-tower murals of the Great
Depression depict different aspects of life in California during the 1930s. The
'Crookedest Street in the World' winds down the steep eastern side of Russian
Hill, the angle so steep that Lombard Street has to zigzag down with eight sharp
turns to make any descent possible. The affluent residents inside their mansions
with well-tended flowerbeds that flank the street bemoan the frequent traffic
jams as thousands of visitors queue at the top and wait their turn to drive
slowly down the tight curves, gathering at the bottom for photographic
opportunities.
Golden Gate Park
Of the many open green spaces in San
Francisco, Golden Gate Park is the biggest and the loveliest stretching from The
Haight to the Pacific Ocean, featuring gardens, lakes, numerous sporting
facilities, and museums. On Sundays the main drive is closed to traffic and
becomes the playground for joggers, cyclists, roller-bladers and strollers. The
California Academy of Sciences includes the Natural History Museum, aquarium and
planetarium (temporarily relocated to 875 Howard Street until late 2008 due to
renovations). The serenity of the Japanese Tea Garden with its bridges, bonsai
and fortune cookies is a favourite with tour groups. Although filled with
people, the park never seems crowded and there is always a secluded space
somewhere on the lawns or in the gardens.
Cable Cars
One of San Francisco’s most endearing
attractions is its network of 130-year-old cable cars, the only mobile National
Historic Landmark in the country, and the world’s only surviving system of cable
cars. Many cities adopted the system, but all have since been replaced by more
practical means of transport. The perpetuation of these clanking museum pieces
was due to determination by the city’s residents and today they remain at the
heart of the city’s character. It is an experience to ride up and down the steep
gradients of the hills, hanging on while the brass bell clangs, the conductor
jingles his coins and the familiar clanking of the cables pulls the car at a
constant 9.5 miles (15km) per hour. Many people have difficulty believing that
these six-tonne cars can work without engines and the San Francisco Cable Car
Museum affords visitors a closer look at the cable-winding machinery, and the
‘home base’ where cars are reeled in and out on 11 miles (17km) of steel cable.
The museum also houses some interesting sights, including the first cable car
(1873) and scale models of different types of cable cars that were once in use
in the city. The idea of the cable car system was conceived by engineer Andrew
Hallidie. After watching the uphill struggle of laden horse-drawn carts, he was
determined to find a kinder and more efficient means of transportation, which he
produced four years later.
Within the surprisingly compact city are distinct neighbourhoods
that reflect the cultural background of diverse communities that were attracted
to San Francisco by the discovery of gold in 1848, and the promise of a new life
for those desperate to escape their harsh circumstances. Most of San Francisco's
residents were born outside the city and this mix of cultures is reflected in
the dragon-studded temples of colourful Chinatown and Japantown, the
characteristic bohemian flavour of the Italian pasta restaurants and cappuccino
cafes in North Beach, the old Spanish-speaking Mission District that blends with
the nightlife of SoMa, the modern Financial District, the gay centre of Castro
and The Haight, characterised by the memory of the hippie movement of the
1960s.
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