THE
POPPULAR CITY IN EUROPE
FLORENCE
MANCHESTER
FLORENCE
LIVERPOOL
MILAN
OXFORD
VENICE
GLASGOW
Florence
Travel Guide
The principal Tuscan city of Florence (Firenze) nestles below the
wooded foothills of the Apennines, along the banks of the Arno River. The works
of Botticelli, Michelangelo, Bruneschelli, Leonardo da Vinci, Boccaccio,
Alberti, Masaccio, Donatello, Vasari and Fra Angelico imbue the city with the
magnificence of their contribution to art and life. The city itself is muse to
some and home to many stylish citizens who titivate the cobbled streets and
fashionable piazzas with their inimitable Italian flair.
The heart of the
city, where everyone from tourist to tout seems to congregate, is the Piazza de
Duomo and the Piazza della Signoria. The statues dominating the Piazza della
Signoria commemorate major historical events of the city's life and the
magnificent Palazzo Vecchio still performs its original role as Florence's town
hall. The adjacent Uffizi is the oldest gallery in the world with a collection
of the greatest works of the Renaissance commissioned largely by the Medici
family. The man who founded the great long-ruling Medici dynasty was Cosimo il
Vecchio. His legacy is imprinted in the city's northern area marked by the
churches of San Lorenzo, San Marco and the Palazzo Medici Riccardi.
The
Western stretches of the city are formed by Florence's railway station at one
end and the Ponte Vecchio at the other. The quaint Ponte Vecchio bridge was
built in 1345 and was one of the few areas to emerge unscathed from the wartime
bombs. Little workshops that used to belong to butchers, tanners and
blacksmiths, peer onto the river from their timber supports. Santa Maria Novella
also rises from the city's western boundaries in true gothic splendour
preserving some of the most important works of art in Florence.
The Oltrarno
(meaning 'over the Arno') area became the place from which the Medici ruled from
the Palazzo Pitti. The magnificent Boboli Gardens were designed and laid out
around it. The area surrounding Via Maggio and Piazza di Santo Spirito boasts a
collection of other palazzi built during the late 16th and 17th
centuries.
The Accademia Gallery
Michelangelo's David stands
self-assured above the crowds that flock to admire him. In the hallway leading
up to the famous sculpture are further examples of Michelangelo's genius in the
figures of the four Prisoners. The statues were deliberately left unfinished
revealing the marble in its unfashioned state.
Piazza del Duomo (Cathedral Square)
Santa Maria del
Fiore, the Duomo or Cathedral of Florence, is set in the heart of the city and
perches above the metropolis like an emperor before his subjects. Its most
distinctive feature is the enormous dome designed by Filippo Brunelleschi and
built between 1420 and 1436. Visitors can climb between the two shells of the
cupola for an unrivalled panorama of the city. The original Gothic exterior was
destroyed in 1587 so that it could be replaced by the styling of the High
Renaissance. This vision however died prematurely with its patron, the Grand
Duke Francesco de Medici and the funding to build the neo-Gothic fa?ade that we
see today was not found until the 19th century. The Campanile (bell tower) was
built according to Giotto's designs in 1334 and is an elegant prop to
Brunelleschi's stout Cathedral. The tower is decorated with two garlands of
bas-reliefs, strung around its pink, white and green marble fa?ade. Above,
sculptures of the Prophets and Sybils, carved by Donatello, look down upon the
city below. The Campanile can also be climbed for the magnificent views over the
square and the adjacent cathedral. The neighbouring Baptistry, with its famous
doors designed by Lorenzo Ghiberti, is one of Florence's oldest buildings, and
was originally a pagan temple. The gilded brass doors, dubbed the 'Gates of
Paradise' were commissioned in 1401 to mark Florence's deliverance from the
plague. The original panels are in the Museo dell'Opera del Duomo (the Duomo
Works Museum) that exists largely to safeguard the sculptures removed from the
doors and niches around the Piazza del Duomo. The museum also contains the
machines used in the construction of the cathedral's dome and has displays
devoted to the problematic construction of the cathedral's fa?ade. A room
containing Ghiberti's baptistry doors provides an opportunity to closely examine
the stiacciato relief technique used. Other noteworthy artefacts found in the
museum include Michelangelo's Pieta, the carved figures of Donatello's Prophets
as well as his Magdalene sculpture. In the anteroom are Andrea Pisano's panels
from the first few levels of the bell tower.
The Bargello (Museo Nazionale del Bargello)
This Gothic
Palazzo shelters a treasured national collection of Renaissance sculpture.
Before its renovation to become Italy's first national museum, the building,
constructed in 1255, functioned as a town hall, private residence and prison. An
extensive collection of decorative arts is on display in addition to the
magnificent sculptures of Michelangelo, Donatello, Giambologna and Cellini. The
Palazzo's inner courtyard is ornamented with numerous coats of arms and the
grand stairwell leading to the second-story loggia overflows with bronze birds
created for the Medici's gardens. Other notable displays include an Islamic
collection, an assortment of ivories (the largest collection in the world) and
16th-century majolica porcelain from Urbino, Faenza and
Florence.
Sante Croce
This magnificent Gothic church built in 1294
contains the tombs of many celebrated Florentines such as Michelangelo, Galileo,
Ghiberti and Machiavelli. The Gothic interior is graced by the radiant frescoes
of Giotto and his pupil Taddeo Gaddi and integrated into the cloister next to
the church is Brunelleschi’s Pazzi Chapel (Cappella de’ Pazzi). When Lord Byron
first laid eyes on the church he declared himself ‘drunk with
beauty’.
Florence
Attractions
The Uffizi (Gallerie degli Uffizi)
The Uffizi is one of
the world's greatest art galleries with a collection of Renaissance paintings
that include the works of Giotto, Masaccio, Paolo Ucello, Sandro Botticelli,
Leonardo da Vinci, Michelangelo, Titian and Caravaggio. The collection is housed
on the top floor of a building designed as the offices (uffizi) of the Medici,
commissioned by Duke Cosimo I. From 1581, Cosimo's heirs used the upper storey
to display the Medici art treasures. Ancient Greek and Roman sculptures line the
inner corridors of the gallery and a series of rooms jut off from here,
showcasing the chronological development of Florentine art from Gothic to High
Renaissance and beyond. The scale and magnitude of the collection may need to be
enjoyed over two visits. Rooms 1-15 (Florentine Renaissance) could be explored
more thoroughly on the first trip and on the next visit one could concentrate on
rooms 16 to 45 (from High Renaissance to later Italian and European
painting).
Palazzo Pitti and Giardino Boboli
Originally owned by
wealthy banker, Luca Pitti, the Palazzo later became the property of the Medici
family. It is a grand structure that now boasts no less than seven museums.
Amongst these are the Medici treasures that are showcased in the Museo degli
Argenti, the Museum of Costumes and the Porcelain Museum. The Galleria d'Arte
Moderna provides a fascinating display of works from the Macchiaioli school -
early 19th century proto-impressionist paintings - as well as a collection of
Neoclassical and Romantic art. Extending behind the palace are the elaborately
landscaped and beautifully maintained Giardino Boboli (Boboli Gardens). The most
celebrated aspects of the gardens include the Grotta del Buontalenti located
close the entrance. In the deepest recess of the cave is Venus Emerging from her
Bath attended by curious imps. Another notable structure is the enormous
amphitheatre designed on a scale to serve the Medici's tastes.
Ponte Vecchio
The Ponte Vecchio's status as the oldest
bridge in Florence saved it from destruction during the Nazi retreat from Italy
in 1944. They defied orders to blow up the stately bridge straddling the Arno
River and bombed the ancient buildings on either side of it instead. The Arno
flood of 1966 also tested the bridge's resilience and swept parts of it away in
its powerful current. The most affected sections were the overhanging shops
belonging to the gold and silversmiths. In 1593 the original tenants - butchers,
tanners and blacksmiths - were evicted from the workshops because of the noise
and stench they created. To one side of the bridge is the majestic bust of the
most famous Florentine goldsmith, Benvenuto Cellini. Perched above the shops is
a secret passageway, the Vasari Corridor, providing an elevated link to the
Palazzo Pitti via the Uffizi. It was the private walkway of the Medici's who
could move between the various residences without having to rub shoulders with
the riff raff.
OTHER
EUROPE
THE GREAT
CITY