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Delhi
Travel Guide
Through a sweltering bazaar with each vendor crying out louder
than the next, clamouring through a sweaty crowd, a beggar tugs at your shirt as
the sticky stench of the city pierces your nostrils. Navigate your way across
the road through a perennial traffic jam of blasting horns and angry shouts, and
suddenly you'll find yourself stepping through the trees into a deserted
courtyard, flanked by gurgling ponds below the huge glittering dome of an
ornately patterned mosque.
This is Delhi, city of contrasts, where an
elephant can overtake an overheated Italian sports car on the streets, where
colonial mansion stands next to squatter slum, and where cows are revered, but
musicians are labelled 'untouchable'. The city's pace is chaotic, yet fairly
relaxed, and makes it ideal for exploring. You're certain to be confronted with
some strange and exotic sights.
With a long and troubled history, Delhi is
full of fascinating temples, museums, mosques and forts, each with a distinct
architectural style. In Old Delhi, visitors will find a charming selection of
colourful bazaars and narrow winding alleys. In comparison, New Delhi - the city
created to reflect the might of the British Empire - consists of tree-lined
avenues, spacious parks and sombre-looking government buildings.
While Delhi
itself could take a lifetime to explore, it's also ideal as a base for visiting
the Taj Mahal in Agra, and it provides the best links for travelling to the hill
stations of the North.
Jama Masjid
Shah Jehan, the architect of the Red Fort
and much of Old Delhi, built Jama Masjid between 1644 and 1656. This grand
structure is situated on a hill a few hundred yards west of the Red Fort and
towers over the mayhem of Old Delhi's sprawling streets. Jama Masjid is India's
largest mosque and can hold 25,000 worshipers at one time. Wide red sandstone
steps lead to entrances on the North, South and East sides of the mosque. Inside
is the massive courtyard dominated by two red and white striped sandstone
minarets that cap the main prayer hall on the west side (facing Mecca). There
are smaller towers at each corner of the mosque; energetic visitors can climb
the 122 narrow steps of the southern one to be rewarded with magnificent views
of Old and New Delhi. Those wearing shorts or skirts can hire a lunghi to
cover their legs.
Qutb Minar
The Qutb Minar is a mammoth tower that was
built between 1193 and 1369 to symbolise Islamic rule over Delhi and commemorate
the victory by Qutab-ud-din over the city’s last Hindu kingdom. Standing 238ft
(72m) tall, the tower is decorated with calligraphy representing verses from the
Koran and tapers from a 50ft (15m) diameter at the base to just 8ft (2.5m) at
the top. There are five distinct stories each encircled with a balcony, the
first three are built of red sandstone, and the upper two are faced with white
marble. At the foot of the minhar, stands Quwwat-ul-Islam, India’s oldest
mosque, which is built largely from the remains of 27 Hindu and Jain temples
that were destroyed by the new Muslim rulers of India. The cloisters that flank
the nearby courtyard are supported by pillars unmistakably pilfered from Hindu
temples. Faces of the decorative figures have been removed to conform to Islamic
law, which strictly forbids iconic worship. Incongruously, in the corner of the
mosque, stands an Iron Pillar, bearing fourth-century Sanskrit inscriptions of
the Gupta period attributing it to the memory of King Chandragupta II (373-413).
It is said that anyone who can encircle it with their hands whilst standing with
their back to it will have their wishes fulfilled.
Humayun’s Tomb
Humayun’s Tomb is one of the
best-preserved and beautiful examples of Mogul architecture in Delhi and is
often seen as a forerunner of the Taj Mahal in Agra. Building started on the
tomb in 1564 after the death of Humayun, the second Moghul emperor; it was
overseen by Haji Begum, his senior widow and the mother of Akbar. The tomb is an
octagonal structure capped by a double dome that soars 125ft (38m) into the sky
and is set in a formal Persian garden. In the grounds are some other monuments,
including the Tomb of Isa Khan.
Rashtrapati Bhavan
After his visit in 1911 the Emperor
of India, King George V of England, decreed that the capital should be moved
from Calcutta to Delhi. Edwin Lutyens was commissioned to plan the new
government centre, which he focused around Rajpath, the grand, tree-lined
boulevard that runs between the Secretariat Buildings and India Arch, the war
memorial built in 1921. Rashtrapati Bhavan was built by Lutyens and Sir Herbert
Baker between 1921 and 1929 on the gentle slope of Raisina Hill, flanked by the
Secretariat Buildings. This immense palace, larger than Versailles, was created
for the Viceroy and is now the residence of the President of India. With the
exception of the central copper dome there are few concessions to Indian
architectural style and despite its classical columns the building is
unmistakably British and, like most great Indian monuments, is a potent symbol
of imperial power. Every Saturday morning between 9.35am and 10.15am, guards
parade before the iron grille gates in Delhi's answer to London's Changing of
the Guard. The gardens are open to the public every year in February and
March.
Delhi
Attractions
Red Fort
The Red Fort, known locally as Lal
Quila, is Delhi's signature attraction, rising high above the clamour of Old
Delhi as a reminder of the wealth and power of the Mogul empire. The massive
sandstone walls were built in the 17th century to keep out marauding invaders
and still dominate the skyline today. Inside are an array of exquisite
buildings, which once provided the living quarters for Shah Jehan, his
courtiers, family and staff of three thousand. Visitors can marvel at the
intricate decoration and only imagine the scenes here at the empire's height
when the walls were studded with precious stones and a 'stream of paradise'
drove an ingenious air conditioning system. The fort was the scene of the Indian
uprising of 1857 and the mighty Lahore Gate, on the west side of the fort,
remains a potent symbol in the fight for Independence.
Chandni Chowk
No trip to Delhi would be complete without
a visit to one of the bazaars that surround Chandni Chowk (Moonlight Square), in
Old Delhi, where shops and stalls display a wonderful array of goods and offer a
pungent and colourful insight into Delhi life. Chandni Chowk has a large number
of galis (lanes) and each one is different, with their own atmosphere and
smells. Naya Bazaar, on Khari Baoli, is the spice market that displays a
wonderful selection of foodstuff in neat, colourful piles. The nearby Gadodial
Market is the wholesale spice market. Hundreds of spices and condiments can be
found including aniseed, ginger, pomegranate, saffron, lotus seeds, pickles and
chutneys, to name just a few. Chor Bazaar sits behind the ramparts of the Red
Fort and comes to life on Sundays to trade a collection of 'second hand' goods.
Chawri Bazaar was once notorious for the ladies who beckoned men from the arched
windows and balconies above street. Today, these houses have made way for shops
specialising in brass and copper Buddhas, Vishnus and Krishnas. Some of the
busiest galis house the poultry and fish markets, east of Kalan Mahal, but they
are wisely avoided by most tourists.
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